Wilson describes the trend for the Marchesa Spring 2012 collection as "Under the Sea." Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig of Marchesa noted in their program a number "nautical" inspirations. The 19th- century Ilya Repin painting "Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom" and Ernst Haeckel drawings of tentacles and jellyfish. Wilson speaks specifically about the silhouette of the dress that opened the show as a tiered dress "made of cascading silver fringe that was breathtaking." He goes on to describe design details such as: silver fringe, fringe thick as a mop, embroidered sequins, both on the fabric and some underneath layers of fabric, the movement of the dresses and the illusions created by the dresses. Wilson also mentions the "coral-like patterns" created on the models' bodies from the fabric and the embroidered sequins. Much of the fabric used was sheer tulle, organza and chiffon.
Once I googled these images and took a look at the Marchesa spring collection everything that Wilson spoke about clicked. His descriptions really painted a picture for me. The inspirations go hand in hand with the collection and the description helped me understand what Wilson himself saw as he was watching the show.
Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom
Ernst Haeckel Drawings
Marchesa Spring Collection 2012
Credits:
NYT "Marchesa: Under the Sea" By Eric Wilson: http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/09/13/marchesa-under-the-sea/
Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sadko.jpg
Ernst Haeckel drawings: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kunstformen_der_Natur
Marchesa Spring Collection 2012: http://www.nytimes.com/packages/html/style/fashionweek/runway.html#spring_2012_marchesa
I love the comparison pieces to see where the inspiration for this collection was originated. I don't know much about Marchesa but I see it as a very elegant but daring brand. This reminds me of Versace's Spring/Summer 2012 runway show, Donatella also had a mermaid theme. Donatella incorporated sparkling whites with bedazzled jewels. I would put both collections in the same category, they we're both beautifully displayed.
ReplyDeleteI have always loved Marchesa, they have the most amazing designs. This collection is beautiful in the way they turned sea creatures and spotlighted the elegance in it. Even the colors are murky but so very pretty.
ReplyDeleteI am in love with Marchesa and everything they do. I thought it was interesting how they went in a little bit of a different direction this season with the sequined embroidery and all of the fringe. They are the ultimate in femininity...so beautiful!
ReplyDelete